What is deadstock fabric
Part of trying to increase our sustainability is to keep thinking of ways to reduce our waste. Unfortunately, the clothing industry is responsible for a large proportion of pollution and waste at the moment.
So what can we do about it?
If you’re looking for ways to reduce your clothing waste, then perhaps deadstock fabric could be something you’re interested in.
This might raise a few questions if it’s not a phrase you’ve heard before.
So what is deadstock fabric? And how is it sustainable?
There is a lot of information to sift through on the topic, including the difference between deadstock and available fabric stock, and how to make sure you’ve got real deadstock material.
If deadstock fabric isn’t going to work for you, then you do have a few more options that fulfil a similar idea - giving things a new lease of life before you throw them away, therefore reducing landfill.
What is deadstock fabric, and is it sustainable?
Deadstock fabric or deadstock material is most often referring to left over fabric from textiles and clothing industry, made and then not used for garments or curtains, or some other textiles product. This could be due to discontinued lines, over-ordering or some flaw in the fabric.
Deadstock can also mean fabric or material that possibly has some small amount of damage or staining, or was misprinted in a way that means it can’t be used for the original purpose that it was ordered for.
The small pieces leftover after pattern cutting are also called deadstock fabric. They can be used for patchwork or to make smaller items. Businesses who are eco-conscious are often very calculated when pattern cutting, to ensure any cut offs can be repurposed.
As an original product, deadstock isn’t always sustainable in its production. There are no guarantees about the sustainability of the making process. Most fabrics will have the usual sustainability issues associated with the textiles industry. This includes high water usage, pollution from washing off fibres and chemicals and high energy usage machinery.
In fact, about 20% of industrial water pollution is linked to the making and manufacture of clothes, which you can read about here.
So, how is deadstock sustainable?
Well, it can be a sustainable way of not wasting otherwise unused fabric, giving that unwanted material another use and another chance at life.
Lots of companies use deadstock to make clothing and accessories. You may even notice high street fashion chains are beginning to adopt more sustainable methods like this.Almost any type of fabric made can potentially produce deadstock, though the more expensive the material, the less likely this is.
So there’s lots to choose from, that can be bought as bolts of fabric, or as already made clothing if you find the right companies.
Deadstock fabric versus available fabric stock - what’s the difference?
So if you’ve heard of deadstock fabric, you might have also come across the phrase available stock fabric.
It can be difficult to guarantee that you’re getting genuine deadstock not ‘available stock’, so establishing a difference is important.
Available stock is fabric deliberately overproduced by a mill or fabric factory, for example plain t-shirt fabrics, as a regularly needed product with almost guaranteed future buyers.
It is often cheaper for the manufacturer to run extra fabric that can later be sold at discounted prices, than to leave machines empty.
Between each making or printing, machines have to be stopped, cleaned, and then reprogrammed or set up for the next fabric to be produced. So making a little extra can be easier while you’re waiting for your next order to come in, or if you’ve only got a little time left in the day and can’t get the change over done.
A lot of companies have it planned in their budgets for most of their fabric to be sold at full price to the company that requested the product, then the extra available fabric stock can be sold at a lower price.
This available fabric stock is very unlikely to end up in landfill. It is far more likely that it will be sold at discount or used to make cheaper clothing in developing countries.
If you’re trying to think sustainably, buying available stock isn’t often seen as better than buying normal clothing. Instead it can simply be seen as buying into deliberate overproduction and promoting the creation of excess.
So be careful with your sourcing. Is the company you’re buying your clothes from using genuine deadstock? Or simply discount available fabric stock?
Let’s stick to our original idea of reducing waste
Deadstock fabric is often rejected by the company who ordered it due to damage or it not functioning as it should. For example, it might not be properly waterproof when tested or might contain too many chemicals. This could mean its lower quality fabric, or it could mean that it can be used for something other than what it was made for.
Similar to upcycling, it sounds like a good idea. That fabric might not be entirely waterproof, but might make a decent bag for your swimming kit. Or turning denim meant for jeans into a new skirt, even if the washed out effect didn’t quite work.
If you’re still struggling a little with the idea of deadstock fabric, or finding a good company that will sell genuine deadstock products, there are other options that will still reduce your clothing waste.
You could:
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- Buy from charity, hospice or second-hand shops; this gives clothes another use, and helps reduce high turnover of the fashion industry.
- Buy from small or independent shops, as they are less likely to overproduce fabric, or waste any excess they do have.
- Look into ‘vintage deadstock’; taking old clothes apart and reusing the fabric to make more modern designs, the material isn’t wasted but given a new lease of life.
- Buy fewer but hardier and longer lasting items of clothing; the less you buy, less eventually ends up in landfill.
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We like that last option a lot, which is part of why we work so hard to make sure our products are just that; well made, long lasting and well suited to their purpose.
New Zealand Natural Clothing’s approach to deadstock
NZNC also has a line that uses deadstock, but from the initially spun fibre rather than offcuts from fully produced fabric. Read more about it below.
Eco possum blend is an MKM innovation that builds on the environmentally friendly and sustainable properties of woollen garments. When yarn is spun 'fibre fluff' is produced which is ordinarily discarded. This fibre has been collected and re-spun to create an entirely new yarn that's warm, soft and tough.
Check out some of our MKM products below:
Keep in mind...
Deadstock fabric might not be of use to the company that originally ordered it. It might be misprinted, stained, or of an odd shape or size, but it can still be a brilliant way to help reduce waste.
If you’re consciously trying to shop more sustainably and looking at deadstock options, just be careful that you don’t fall into the marketing trap of available fabric stock. It might be cheaper, but it isn’t often destined for landfill. Ask yourself where the seller got the material for their deadstock fabric clothing.
Or better yet, ask the seller!
Remember you have lots of options for reducing your clothing waste, including choosing long-lasting clothing. That will reduce the amount of wasted fabric that ends up thrown away and reduce the need to keep having to replace things all the time.