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All about Natural fibres

All about Natural fibres

Posted by Team NZNC on 30th Apr 2021

We here at New Zealand Natural Clothing create and sell beautiful and practical garments. That’s our promise – from our family to yours.

A big part of the ‘practicality’ of our garments is that they are made with the right fibres for the job. This can be a little overwhelming because there are so many great choices and just not enough cupboard space!

It’s important for us that you know exactly what you’re buying (especially if you’re not in NZ and can’t speak to an expert in-store).  

So we have done all the fibre research for you so you know the good, the not-so-good and the downright wonderful features of all the fibres we carry within our products.

Plus we have highlighted our personal favourites, because we love what we make just as much as you love wearing it!

Different fibres fulfil different roles, just as you wouldn’t build a paper house, you wouldn’t wear a silk item out on the farmland. I mean, you could, you would look very very fancy but it wouldn’t protect you from the elements like possum fibre does.

Possum

Possum is a great all-rounder. Not only does the hollow fibre trap heat, but it is lightweight and feels super luxurious.

This is what we love about possum fur:

  • It’s really silky. It feels great to wear and soft to the touch.
  • It’s unfreezable. You could hang it in a walk-in freezer for days and it wouldn’t freeze (another similar fibre that can do this is polar bear fur!)
  • Mixing up Possum and merino wool creates a low pill and antistatic fibre which basically means your Possum piece will look as good in years to come as it does today
  • It’s as light as a feather. Possum fibre is hollow which means it is really lightweight.
  • It doesn’t tend to get smelly. More odour resistant than other fibres! This is because Possum fur takes moisture away from the body and releases it into the air.
  • The collection/use of the fibre also assists New Zealand in the management of this introduced pest.

We really like the Koru zip jackets for when it’s icy cold! It’s a fantastic option for a lightweight, toasty, odour-free jacket for nights that rival the Arctic. And because of the breathable aspect of the possum, you’ll get a lot of use out of it on those slightly warmer days too.

 

Plated Jacket Grey Black with K0157 beanie

Merino

We like to use the finest merino wool, typically 18 to 20 microns, out there because:

  • It wicks better. This means it expels moisture as opposed to holding it in
  • Merino feels really soft on your skin
  • Low-allergenic; always good news for those of us who are prone to itchy reactions!
  • Merino helps garments to hang better. No one likes a fibre that just doesn’t hang right.

 

Merino is the leader in knitwear blends and when it’s flying solo too. The value of a garment increases as the micron count gets lower because of how fine that wool is. In the Merino world, this has triggered a rapid cost increase because of the demand.

We love merino wool so much that it’s the base layer in our head-to-toe garments and accessories. The quality of our merino can’t be beaten in our opinion. Not all merino garments are created equally.

The label may state 100% Merino, but be aware that there are many different grades of merino, spun thicker and thinner and knitted to different specifications.

Feel your merino, bunch it in your hand, pass it through your fingers, experience the difference in the garments you’ve purchased. It won’t be long before you will be able to pick out the quality garments by touch alone!

If you want a superfine base layer, you need it to be around the 19–20 micron range. We have superior base layers in-store that will exceed your comfort expectations!

 

Sheep's Wool

If you need your workwear to be tough, durable and built to cope with all kinds of outdoor work, then this coarse wool is for you.

This wool often needs no blending - it’s the master of workwear knitwear in its own right.

Jerseys are usually 100% high-quality crossbred wool (often Romney breed), and some are made from a blend of wool and nylon – for enhanced durability. The nylon makes the garment easier to wash. It doesn’t pull and make a run as easily when it’s snagged. This is why it’s so great for workwear!

 

Silk

Who doesn’t love a touch of silk? Silk makes everything feel like it’s been steeped in luxury!

We adore silk because:

  • It’s soft
  • It’s light
  • It makes us feel like a million dollars

All items in our Koru range use mulberry silk. Only the best for Koru, they do this because mulberry silk is known as the highest grade silk you can get in the world. Pure white in colour, it is more refined than other types of silk.

Silk is valued for its strength primarily, but its beautiful texture makes it very sought after!

 

Alpaca

Alpaca fibre can be either lightweight or heavyweight depending on how it is spun. Besides being incredibly versatile in this way, we think it’s great because:

  • It’s durable – it lasts and lasts. We’ve seen alpaca garments passed down through generations!
  • It’s a really soft and lavish natural fibre
  • Alpaca is naturally water resistant and hard to set on fire
  • Warmer than sheep’s wool
  • Hypoallergenic because of the lack of lanolin

We use Alpaca for our hand-crocheted and knitted garments, such as our beautifully soft brushed Alpaca beanie - Perfect for keeping your ears warm with a touch of luxury!

 

Nylon

Nylon is a great blendeing fibre. We use it in our socks because:

  • Nylon has very good elasticity
  • It’s really resilient
  • It resists friction

We like to use Nylon in our work and dress socks as it acts as a strengthening agent for wear resistance. We also use it in our original work jerseys and 10% in our Native World gloves and some garments for the same reason.

Making products that not only fit the bill for right now, but last is really important to us and nylon helps make sure our products can do that for you.

 

Shetland wool

This is coarse wool made from skirts of the fleece. The bits that get rubbed against harsh terrain. Sometimes called dagg wool.

Shetland wool is great for hard-wearing knit fabric because it doesn’t pull, pill or get snagged as easily as finer wools.

The benefits of Shetland wool are impressive:

  • Value for money as the cost of raw materials is much lower
  • It’s a coarser wool which makes it very hard-wearing, it’s not soft to the touch, people working in harsh environments do not need soft to touch!
  • Less pilling than some other finer wools.
  • It is so strong they make carpets from this wool.

 Companies will sometimes advertise wool as ‘Shetland Wool’ - but it’s not from Shetland, it’s skirt wool - wool from the belly and leg of the sheep. This is the least expensive clip because it uses a lower grade, less sought-after skirt sheeps wool.

Hollow Fill Polyester

We know that hollow fill means it’s light, freeze resistant and soft. Hollow-Fill Polyester is the synthetic copy of possum and polar bear fibre.

  • These fibres are less expensive than the natural choices. They are mostly mass-produced in lower-labour-cost countries. There are less human touch points (growing, harvesting and processing for example) than any naturally grown fibres.
  • Synthetic fibres generally last much longer than biodegradable natural fibres generally
  • Man-made copies of natural fibres can often be a better resource in manufacturing. They can have: higher rates of consistency, the ease of alteration for purpose rather than breeding, grafting or cloning.

We rate this fibre so highly that we use it in the thermal Hi Trek Norsewear sock because of its unchallenged durability and heat trapping properties.

Oilskin

Impregnating cotton with oil makes it what we consider today as an oilskin – this oil impregnated fibre sheds water which is why it is used for Norsewear and Swanndri vests and jackets.

Oilskin’s waterproofing properties make it the ideal fibre for outdoor work, oilskin has been used for centuries and is mostly popular with fishermen or sailors due to its water-shedding capability whilst still maintaining breathability.

There is a fashion element too, hardy-looking long coats are a favourite for train commuters that often get caught on the platform in unpredictable weather.

What’s oilskin got to offer?

  • It has a cotton natural fibre base
  • The heritage of its use sits well beside knitwear as trusted, reliable material for shedding weather, for outdoor people.
  • It creates a hardy protective shell for the user; mud, dust and moisture are shielded from the body with a layer of oilskin.
  • Reproofing and care of the oil coating can see the fabric last for years much longer than many other fabrics including many synthetics.
  • Designers and milliners find the fabric easy to sew to make great garments

Flame-Retardant, Non-Conductive fibres

Not catching fire when working around fire is a hugely important benefit to flame-retardant fibres. Motor racing, electrical work and hot work are demanding registered fibre garments that meet safety requirements.

We’ve crafted some really useful products using these fibres such as the fire-treated smelter electrical sock.

  • Sewing threads like Nomex are used in 100% merino garments for flame retarding (wool is naturall flame-resistant) but you can imagine a nylon stitching burning the skin in vulnerable places! Used in motor racing, ballistic, and fire suits
  • Aramid threads such as Nomex, Kevlar and Technora are used for suppressing electrical conductivity, and are a requirement for power company staff compliance these days. 

Cotton

Cotton is the girl next door who’s just good at everything. She’s sporty, musical, academic, social, beautiful, friendly and the list goes on. This is a really fantastic natural fibre because:

  • It’s lightweight
  • Cotton is known for being comfortable
  • It absorbs water
  • It’s breathable

We find cotton to be a much cooler fibre which is why we like to use it in the possum bed socks from Norsewear and the Paihia Shirt from Swanndri.

First-Shear Lambswool

The lamb’s very first haircut produces a quality of wool that is smooth, strong and more elastic. A favourite for rural Kiwis because it:

  • Is 27 microns which means it’s sensationally soft
  • Gives that homespun look because it’s natural
  • Needs minimal processing
  • Is less prickly


We highly recommend the Palliser Guernsey and the pom pom hat, socks and gloves made with this delectable fibre! More about our Palliser Ridge range here.

Eco (Everyday) Possum Fibre

This is made up of the short fibres that drop out of the machines and are blended with 28% short-fibre possum, 42% Merino wool, 28% nylon and 2% Lycra to create a yarn that we know is a superb option for our socks, gloves and hats because:

  • Lower cost of the fibre deemed as lower-grade compared to the long fibre (100% use of the fibres) gives a lower yarn cost
  • Eco status due to zero waste using these shorter fibres
  • Used in the dual-layer lining of the MKM 36.6 range keeps garment costs lower than the use of luxury yarns.

Lycra

So elastic it could rival Elastigirl from The Incredibles. Also known as spandex or elastane. Lycra is a polyether-polurea coploymer which was invented by chemist Joseph Shivers in 1958.

This is a fab fibre because:

  • It’s super stretchy
  • Easy to purchase in quantity and grades required to add stretch in garments
  • Lower cost to produce and manufacture products than elastic
  • It is more durable to heat and washing than elastic
  • Keeps the cyclists and gym junkies happy because of its great form and fit

We use this in our socks to get that stretch as well as in some merino garments to give them a little stretch.

Rabbit Fur and Rabbit Leather

Rabbit is a wonderful fibre and definitely one we would flag for the more luxurious of garments.

We think rabbit fur and leather are fabulous because…

  • Rabbit leather is very soft and luxurious
  • Rabbit fibre is soft
  • Rabbits can be farmed easily for sustainability of supply
  • A good alternative to possum for luxury feel

Sold out

Leather and Suede

Leather and suede are both traditional natural fibres that have been used for thousands of years.

They are great fibres because they are:

  • Natural products that sews well onto knits for wear protection in high-rub areas
  • Sustainable products for trims and garment aesthetics

 

Coolmax (TCP)

Invista developed a range of polyester fabrics and gave them the name Coolmax, which is cool. What is even cooler is the fact that these fabrics are:

  • Hydrophobic, which means they absorb very little fluid (moisture wicking)
  • They dry quite quickly
  • Stands for Tetra Coolmax Polyester (brand type of coolmax)

 

Athletes generally have sweaty feet after a tough workout and no one wants to be swimming in their shoes, which is why coolmax is definitely the fibre for the job of sports socks.

Acrylic

Acrylic is a modern master. It offers so many opportunities for vibrant colours at lower cost. Acrylic does a great job of copying wool in feel but the biggest advantages are:

  • Acrylic is easy to dye and get exact, consistent colour matches
  • Much lower cost to manufacture than many fibres
  • The soft feel
  • More resistant to sunlight and harsh chemicals than wool

 

There you have it!

An overview of fibres so you have the information you need to stock your closet with the best quality garments that are best suited to what you need them for.

At New Zealand Natural Clothing we are giddy about garments – which means we know what they are made of, how they're made, how to take care of them plus all the pros and cons.

If you have any questions or want to pop into a store and have a cheeky feel of the different garments so you have the experience to say which you prefer, please pop in. Our store is your store!

If you’re a little further away, you can connect with us using the chat box. One of our knit-kings or sox-perts will get back to you ASAP.